Have you ever stared into your overflowing closet and realized you only wear a handful of items on repeat? You're not alone. Australian-born brand Matteau is on a mission to revolutionize women's wardrobes by focusing on those cherished, go-to pieces that become essential staples. Forget fleeting trends; Matteau is about crafting timeless elegance.
Sisters Ilona Hamer and Peta Heinsen, the brains behind Matteau, envision their brand as a curator of a "lifestyle," not just a purveyor of "fashion." Hamer, who also works as a stylist, explains, "We all have those two drawers of the clothes that we actually wear. The whole wardrobe could go away, but you have those two drawers. A lot of people that we know say they’re full of Matteau. That’s what we like to hear.” This sentiment perfectly captures their brand's ethos: creating pieces so beloved, they become irreplaceable.
This philosophy was palpable at Matteau's 10-year anniversary celebration in Paris, coinciding with the prestigious Paris Photo fair. Guests, radiating effortless chic, donned Matteau's luxurious cashmere paired with their signature relaxed jeans, often topped with a stylish blazer – a testament to the brand's versatile appeal.
But here's where it gets interesting... Matteau didn't always offer this complete wardrobe solution. It began with a simple, yet powerful idea: the perfect bikini. A decade ago, the sisters launched Matteau with just three swim tops and three swim briefs, aiming to fill a void in the market for high-quality, minimalist swimwear. Heinsen recalls Hamer, then working at Vogue Australia, lamenting the lack of simple black bikinis despite the abundance of fashion crossing her desk. "She said, ‘You know what? For everything that comes across my desk at Vogue, you would think I could find a simple black bikini.’” The brand's name itself, a blend of 'matt' (referring to the finish) and 'eau' (French for water), reflects this initial focus.
In the early 2010s, accessing affordable, high-quality swimwear in Australia was a challenge. While international retailers like Net-a-Porter shipped to Australia, hefty custom fees made them prohibitively expensive. Heinsen explains, "As much as we love Eres, in Australia, it would be like $500 or $600 for a bathing suit [once the fees were added]."
This "filling-a-gap" mentality has been the driving force behind Matteau's evolution. "We felt like we were answering a need," Heinsen emphasizes. "So we were like, OK, how do we start to fill gaps in the Matteau woman’s wardrobe for her trips for summer? We’ve evolved in much that way through the whole [journey]." Today, ready-to-wear accounts for a staggering 87% of Matteau's annual revenue. But the journey began modestly, mirroring their swimwear launch with a concise three-item collection: a sundress, a shirt, and cropped trousers.
Now, a decade later, Matteau's ready-to-wear collection is impressively comprehensive. Think effortlessly chic ruched summer dresses, classic boxy long-sleeve white cotton tees, impeccably tailored shirts, and perfectly relaxed jeans. Swimwear remains a cornerstone of the brand, however. As Heinsen puts it, "We’ve really just been adding the gaps in our own wardrobe." This personal touch informs their growth strategy as they embark on their second decade, meticulously planning category expansions to cater to their own wardrobes and, by extension, those of their discerning clientele.
Matteau operates as a self-funded enterprise and has been profitable since its second year. Their guiding principle is sustainable growth within their means. This approach meant foregoing paid advertising for the first five years (their initial forays into paid ads occurred during the Covid pandemic) and maintaining a deliberate, unhurried approach to product launches. "We don’t want to be killing ourselves in the process,” Heinsen adds.
And this is the part most people miss: Matteau understands the power of repetition. Their clients appreciate the ability to repurchase favorite silhouettes in new colors and prints, making it a financially astute decision to revisit successful designs. "We redo the same dresses a lot of the time," Hamer explains. "They’re great dresses. We know people who own five or six or 10 of them, they buy a new one every season." If a design resonates with a core group of customers, it's likely to attract new ones as well.
Matteau's next venture? Eyewear, marking another step in completing the Matteau woman's lifestyle.
This deep understanding of women's evolving wardrobe needs stems from the sisters' own experiences. Heinsen reflects, "[When we started] Ilona was in her 20s, I was in my 30s; she’s now in her 30s, I’m now in my 40s. So over that time, we’ve gone through our 20s, 30s and 40s with the brand, and we’ve learnt a lot about how women dress.” Matteau primarily caters to women aged 25 to 54, representing approximately 90% of their customer base. "We know who we’re talking to and what she wants — and what she needs on her trip."
This keen understanding has also fueled Matteau's strategic shift back towards a more direct-to-consumer (DTC) model. Initially a DTC brand, Matteau's wholesale business rapidly expanded as they pursued international recognition and growth. Early days saw an 80% wholesale vs. 20% DTC split, which later stabilized at 70-30. However, the DTC channel has experienced significant growth, approaching a 50-50 balance. The last fiscal year ended with a 51% wholesale vs. 49% DTC split, with Heinsen projecting DTC to reach approximately 55% in fiscal year 2026.
"It’s done a complete flip," Heinsen states, clarifying that wholesale is not declining (Matteau's recent Paris showroom was remarkably successful), but that DTC is flourishing at an accelerated pace. This positions them favorably as multi-brand retail navigates ongoing challenges.
While Matteau originated with a focus on beachwear, the brand's vision has expanded significantly. "We’ve always been more of a summer brand, but we’re now addressing that more seasonal thing," Heinsen explains. "She’s not just doing summer breaks; she’s doing city breaks in the winter, or just spring in the city.” To cater to this broader lifestyle, Matteau introduced cashmere and jeans in 2024 and plans to release a Mackintosh trench coat in their upcoming collection.
Incorporating more winter-ready elements is crucial for establishing Matteau as a truly international fashion brand, transcending its identity as solely an Australian summer staple. But here's where it gets controversial... How can a brand maintain its core identity while appealing to diverse climates and fashion sensibilities? Heinsen acknowledges the challenge: "It’s hard when you are a summer brand and an international brand at the same time," emphasizing the need to engage Australian customers with bikinis and dresses while simultaneously enticing Northern Hemisphere clients with cashmere, Mackintosh, and denim.
Currently, Australia accounts for 60% of Matteau's DTC sales, with the US contributing 75% of international DTC sales. In contrast, wholesale sales are predominantly international (85%), primarily in the US, Europe, and the UK, with domestic Australian sales representing only 15%. Hamer, based in California after relocating from New York shortly after co-founding Matteau, and Heinsen, who remains in Australia, are strategically focusing on expanding Matteau's presence in the UK and Europe while continuing to grow in the US.
To support this international expansion, Matteau is establishing international distribution centers across its key markets, including a US warehouse in March 2025, a European distribution center in Paris, and a UK warehouse planned for summer 2026. "It’s been amazing to have these distribution points in light of a lot of the things going on around duties and taxes and being able to land goods,” Heinsen says.
In addition to expanding its geographic reach and seasonal offerings, Matteau is diversifying its product categories to create more brand touchpoints. Eyewear, launching on December 8th with three distinct shapes, marks the first step. Footwear is also in development and is slated for release in the second half of 2026. Recognizing their limitations, Matteau enlisted design consultants with expertise in eyewear and footwear. "We’re not experts in those areas at all," Heinsen admits. "It’s been really nice to work with and learn from those partners."
Looking ahead, the sisters are eager to establish a physical retail presence for Matteau. Hamer fondly recalls Matteau's Paris showroom, located on a corner in the Marais. "It looked like a store and people who were walking past were just sort of coming in to shop and we were like, ‘Oh, I’m so sorry. Do you have an appointment?’” To their surprise, many passersby already knew the brand. "Pretty much everyone knew us," Hamer smiles. "So we know the appetite is there."
Finding the perfect location, regardless of continent, is paramount, and the sisters are committed to taking their time.
What do you think? Can a brand successfully cater to both summer and winter wardrobes while maintaining its core identity? And what role does a physical store play in building a modern fashion brand? Share your thoughts in the comments below!
